Probably Overthinking It

Much of our time in Japan had shown us a better way of living: greater organisation, world-class infrastructure, and the quiet efficiency the country is known for. But in one corner of Kyoto, we were reminded that Japan still lives in the real world too. In Kyoto station, opposite McDonald's by the Hachijo Exit, there are two ticket machines. Right next to those are the JR line barriers. And just around the corner are the Shinkansen gates. Add in a narrow path between them all, and what do you get? A complete flustercuck. McMornings and Madness For breakfast, we chose the world’s favourite fast-food chain (only because Mos Burger hasn’t yet conquered the world). We lucked out and grabbed four seats just as another family left. Sat at the counter, looking out the window, I witnessed an epic battle of those queuing for a right to travel versus those already doing so. Imagine this image below but two hundred more people in the same space! I won’t lie, as a Brit (cynical lot we are), I...

Kyoto can be quite crowded. Very crowded, in fact. However, we had experienced moments of the tranquillity in the city too. This morning would show us the zen-like side of Kyoto and how, just stepping ever so slightly off the beaten path, you can see that too. The morning’s destinations were the Ginkakuji Temple AKA Silver Pavilion , Philosopher’s Path , plus another less-frequented shrine I was desperate to visit. A 20-minute bus journey took us to the Ginkakuji-michi (Ginkakuji Temple) stop. Our journey had taken us past Kyoto University and set our imaginations off about the philosopher who would commute this way while meditating. Kyoto had been hot during our time there, but disembarking we were met by a cool, fresh morning mountain air. Yes, Kyoto is surrounded by mountains—and in the morning, you can not only see them but feel their presence in the quality of air. We walked alongside the stream and headed to the start/end (depending which way you’re going) of the Philosopher'...

By now we were very accustomed to living in Kyoto. However, getting to Senbon Torii —commonly known as the Thousand Torii Gates —meant getting on the train from Sanjo Station down to Fushimi-Inari Station. Taking the train in Kyoto was something we hadn’t done yet. Walking to and then through Sanjo Station provides brief backroom-esque/liminal space vibes, so when we found a surprisingly well-stocked shop selling local souvenirs and treats, it provided a warmth to what is quite a functional space. The train wasn’t busy at all, a welcome treat after the journeys to and from USJ, and the kids and I found ourselves right at the front of the train. We had fun watching the train driver (in white gloves and a smart hat no less) snake us through the Kyoto railway line. The train ride was a short one, and even if you missed the announcement of Fushimi-Inari Station, you would recognise it from the theming of the station—red pillars, beams, and kitsune (foxes) aplenty.  Snacking and Shuffl...

There are two things that become apparent when planning a trip to Universal Studios Japan . First, it’s insanely expensive compared to the other Japanese tourist sites. We’d walked through a cherry blossomed park and now a bamboo forest for free. We had visited UNESCO world heritage sites for less than lunch in a UK coffee shop. So, contrast that with four standard tickets at Universal Studios and, well, the maths, like my English, don’t make a lot of sense. We bought standard entry passes online via the main website and figured we’d ask about express passes once we were there. I mean, how many companies are going to turn down more money? There’s always a way, right? DAD HINT - You can indeed upgrade your standard tickets and purchase express passes should you wish.   The second thing that will strike you is that getting to USJ from Kyoto is slightly awkward. At least, it feels that way when you look at train maps online. In practice, we caught a Limited Express train to Osaka...

It’s a 20-minute journey to the Kinkaku-ji AKA the  Golden Pavilion from the bus stop closest to the hotel, a simple journey with a surprisingly quiet ride, too. Turns out a lot of people had taken a coach to this cover-photo destination. Once tickets were bought, we followed behind groups of people, hoping it wouldn’t be too hard to actually see the pavilion. But past the ticket office and around the first corner, there it was, in all its glory. While it was busy and everyone was taking family/group/selfie photos, it didn’t distract from the moment. In the morning sun, it really is quite the sight. After taking the obligatory family photo, you walk around a path that loops the grounds. It’s a one-way route and you shuffle more than you walk. It’s slow going with so many people, but again—it doesn’t spoil the experience. After enjoying the gardens and checking out the gift shops, I had a shortcut in mind to our next must-see stop.  Dad Hack: Skip the Long Route It’s a 50+ min...

The RESI STAY Kyo Ryuvilux Nijo hotel is slap bang in the middle of Kyoto. It mirrored our time in Sumida very closely in that it was quiet and surprisingly convenient. There was no Denny’s close by, however, but we’d become accustomed to having breakfast in or from 7-11. Our “local” store didn’t have a place to eat, but as the family rose late, I did a Dad run and fetched a round of onigiri, croissants, melon pan, and the cold bottled coffee I’d become a fan of. Once fed, it was time to hit the pavement.  Except, on many of the roads in Kyoto, there is no pavement. Lines often define part of the road left for pedestrians and cyclists. It’s something you get used to alongside the frequent 4-way junctions in the grid-like layout of downtown Kyoto. A Cultural Glimpse at School This morning, our destination was the Kyoto Imperial Palace and grounds, which contained a secret surprise for my wife. It was a modest walk from our hotel and meant we passed a school on the way. Here, we sa...