Day 8 – Visiting Kyoto’s Imperial Palace with Kids

The RESI STAY Kyo Ryuvilux Nijo hotel is slap bang in the middle of Kyoto. It mirrored our time in Sumida very closely in that it was quiet and surprisingly convenient. There was no Denny’s close by, however, but we’d become accustomed to having breakfast in or from 7-11. Our “local” store didn’t have a place to eat, but as the family rose late, I did a Dad run and fetched a round of onigiri, croissants, melon pan, and the cold bottled coffee I’d become a fan of. Once fed, it was time to hit the pavement. 

Except, on many of the roads in Kyoto, there is no pavement. Lines often define part of the road left for pedestrians and cyclists. It’s something you get used to alongside the frequent 4-way junctions in the grid-like layout of downtown Kyoto.

A Cultural Glimpse at School

This morning, our destination was the Kyoto Imperial Palace and grounds, which contained a secret surprise for my wife. It was a modest walk from our hotel and meant we passed a school on the way. Here, we saw children (some younger than James who's 8), holding a PE class. 

One thing struck us: there were no teachers or assistants visible. 

Two queues of children were lined up behind one child holding a green flag. They took turns racing in pairs across the playground and circling back to the queue. My wife is a former primary school teacher and clearly, my kids are kids. It was a shocking illustration of the cultural differences in order and independence between UK and Japanese schools that left us feeling a little despondent, to be honest.

A Hidden Tea Room Gem

Our moods weren’t low for long, however, and quickly lifted once we reached the Imperial Palace grounds.

Immaculate, as you’d expect, and honestly, I got distracted just strolling about taking in the calming atmosphere of the morning park. All of a sudden, I realised I had gone the long way around the park to reach the palace and arrived at the surprise experience for my wife. No, not another coffee stop, but a tea room called Sasaya Iori.

It was a happy mistake, because by now (there had been some playtime in the playground as well), the tea lounge was open and we were ready for mid-morning snacking. It proved to be one of the outstanding experiences, not only of the day, but the whole holiday. The tea room is pristine and modern. Wooden chairs and tables are surrounded by glass windows allowing you to view the gardens. You can possibly imagine the calming atmosphere but to spoil it a little, check out this photo below. While viewing it, picture drinking Macha tea and traditional Japanese sweets for your morning pick me up. Our kids "did well" with pancakes, ice-cream and sundae-like treats. Not sure what was bigger, their smiles or the dishes themselves!

Once refreshed we thanked the staff and after wishing them the best, we finally made it to the Imperial Palace properly. The palace is unsurprisingly surrounded by walls. What is surprising is the cost of entrance, it's free! Not only is it free to visit but even schedule guided tours are provided at no cost too. We had just missed one guided tour but with the kids to be honest we usually prefer to go at our own (their) pace. 

Once inside the walls of the Imperial Palace, like many destinations in Kyoto, you can barely walk five metres without wanting to take another photo. You are constantly pulled from imaging Japanese palace life, looking into the various building and rooms and then enjoying the gardens as courtensans would have done centuries ago. 

While the kids enjoyed the picturesque grounds, there was a slight grumble that you can't actually go inside the palace. This complaint walked nicely into my “trap,” as the next tourist destination Nijo Castle would give us just that.

Exploring Nijo Castle

We walked from the Imperial Palace to Nijo Castle, which was do-able. The main issue when walking is that you inevitably come across other shrines. With all the time in the world, you’d visit them all but from our time in Tokyo, we’d learned that you just can’t pack everything in.

Nijo Castle is a pay to visit site (click here to see current prices) and when we visited in the afternoon there was no queue. You enter the castle fairly quickly after walking through a couple of stunning courtyard gates. Taking our shoes off (the staff ensures everyone does), we joined the throngs of people shuffling around this UNESCO World Heritage site. Being inside gave us all a greater idea of what living and working in these kinds of buildings would have felt like. The information on display helped paint a picture that our senses had already begun to form. Walking through the castle buildings doesn't take long or walking through the pristine gardens that guide you back to the main entrance, making for a thoroughly enjoyable visit.

The Ice Cream Bribe

By now, people were hungry but I’d come to learn that wasn’t always down to appetite. A lot of our breaks for coffee and cake were just that, breaks. The many steps with walked my family can do without issue. But there’s so much to take in, that being able to sit down and let your mind and legs rest is worth paying for.

And for the next surprise, this time for the kids, I would pay indeed. I had seen an "influencer" ice cream shop that I knew they’d love, and so it was easy to smile through all the questions and moaning about where we were going during the 10-minute walk from the castle.

Walking up to Shinpuhkan, you know you’re not going to find the Japanese equivalent of Greggs in there. But paying for the children to have floral gelatos from This Is and my wife to have a posh coffee from Café Kitsuné meant happy faces all round. (It also meant I could—nay, would—go cheap on dinner tonight.)

Shopping and Kimonos

We had covered a lot of ground, but we weren’t done yet. We walked on to Kyoto Shinkyogoku Shopping Street. We visited this location a few times over the week, it’s always busy, but not in an unpleasant way. Visiting Kuoe (watches) and the Mizuno (sport) shop were on my agenda, but it quickly became all about what the family wanted.

Somewhat out of nowhere, Bella and then James decided they wanted to spend their holiday money on kimonos. There are plenty to be had in Kyoto at different price points, and the family found some lovely second-hand ones for next to nothing (less than £5).

Second-hand shopping in Japan gives you another kind of culture shock. Firstly, the clothing reeks of quality, not dust and disappointment. Secondly, the condition of the items is practically brand new. I can’t say I’ve bought anything second-hand clothing in the UK, but after the kids got their kimonos, I couldn’t help but look through a rail or two myself when the chance came up.

Evening Moment of Joy

With kimonos on, it was time for dinner, Burger King. Told you I’d cheap out, hah!

While the dinner wasn’t too special, the walk home was. Not many heads turned as we explored Kyoto’s shopping district in the evening. But as we got closer to the hotel, we crossed paths with some Japanese pensioners who absolutely beamed with delight smiling broadly and seemingly wishing us well, seeing James and Bella in their kimonos. Any fears of cultural appropriation were put to bed.

Speaking of which, we were finally done for the day. We’d need our rest, because tomorrow we were hitting the busiest tourist destinations yet. Day 9