Day 12 - A dose of family zen, walking the Philopher's Path
Kyoto can be quite crowded. Very crowded, in fact. However, we had experienced moments of the tranquillity in the city too. This morning would show us the zen-like side of Kyoto—and how, just stepping ever so slightly off the beaten path, you can see that too.
The morning’s destinations were the Ginkakuji Temple AKA Silver Pavilion, Philosopher’s Path, plus another less-frequented shrine I was desperate to visit. A 20-minute bus journey took us to the Ginkakuji-michi (Ginkakuji Temple) stop. Our journey had taken us past Kyoto University and set our imaginations off about the philosopher who would commute this way while meditating.
Kyoto had been hot during our time there, but disembarking we were met by a cool, fresh morning mountain air. Yes, Kyoto is surrounded by mountains—and in the morning, you can not only see them but feel their presence in the quality of air. We walked alongside the stream and headed to the start/end (depending which way you’re going) of the Philosopher's Path.
As you get closer to the Philosopher's Path from the northern side, you might be met with a closed road. This is the approach to Ginkaku-ji Temple, and it’s lined with cafés, shops, and restaurants. If this sounds too commercial for you—trust me, it's a very relaxed atmosphere and nothing like the busy Thousand Gates or Golden Pavilion (least not when we visited).
The Silver Pavilion: Subtle but Stunning
The Silver Pavilion may not be on the cover of any guidebooks, but don’t be mistaken—it is worth a visit. The Golden Pavilion, as you’ll note, is set by a large pond. The Silver one likewise, but the gardens and buildings all feel a greater connection to their central highlight.
The gardens have many highlights for someone interested in cloud trees, decorated sandbanks, and moss gardens. You can wander around the gardens and then take a path up to an observation deck. As we knew we had plenty of steps ahead of us, we decided against it—but we still encountered Shinto/Buddhist chanting from one of the buildings.
Further on, while taking photos of the moss garden, we noticed that three gardeners were in fact tending to the area. Leaves were being collected alongside other debris, and it was clear the moss garden’s beauty was as cared for and manicured as any other part of the grounds.
Coffee, Cartoons & Calm
Speaking of looking after things well—it was time for another mid-morning break. Many intriguing smells from X and potential sweets from Y had been seen on the way up, but with Mummy vetoing all options other than a coffee shop, we were able to find a table at AG Coffee.
Sat at the back and spotting Hayao Miyazaki figurines in a little garden, we congratulated Mummy on choosing well. We didn’t need the calories for the walk—it’s not that long—but it certainly set us up well for it.
Walking the Philosopher’s Path
We joined the path proper and immediately stopped for obligatory photos. With trees overhanging the stream/channel and the flagstone path, the appeal is obvious.
Walking along the path, you'll take in another side of Kyoto. Away from the busy attractions or the bustling shopping centres, this is a more sedate and suburban side of the city. We drifted along the path, dipping in and out of pottery shops and art galleries, until I asked the family to turn off and follow me for 300 metres. With this slight diversion, you can easily visit Honen-in Shrine.
He insisted (gently) that the kids and my wife drop them into the water for good luck. I forgot to take a photo of his sign, which is in English and Japanese, but it explains how he won’t take any money for his endeavours. Only that he is doing it to spread joy and happiness.
Such a small act, whose ripples I truly hope cause waves I’m caught up in.
The staff’s English was excellent, and though we had to take a train half an hour later than we initially wanted, it didn't actually dent our plans at all.
We had done it again—ticked off a must-do experience in Kyoto, just in time to head back to Tokyo for our final day in Japan. Day 13
The morning’s destinations were the Ginkakuji Temple AKA Silver Pavilion, Philosopher’s Path, plus another less-frequented shrine I was desperate to visit. A 20-minute bus journey took us to the Ginkakuji-michi (Ginkakuji Temple) stop. Our journey had taken us past Kyoto University and set our imaginations off about the philosopher who would commute this way while meditating.
Kyoto had been hot during our time there, but disembarking we were met by a cool, fresh morning mountain air. Yes, Kyoto is surrounded by mountains—and in the morning, you can not only see them but feel their presence in the quality of air. We walked alongside the stream and headed to the start/end (depending which way you’re going) of the Philosopher's Path.
As you get closer to the Philosopher's Path from the northern side, you might be met with a closed road. This is the approach to Ginkaku-ji Temple, and it’s lined with cafés, shops, and restaurants. If this sounds too commercial for you—trust me, it's a very relaxed atmosphere and nothing like the busy Thousand Gates or Golden Pavilion (least not when we visited).
The Silver Pavilion: Subtle but Stunning
The Silver Pavilion may not be on the cover of any guidebooks, but don’t be mistaken—it is worth a visit. The Golden Pavilion, as you’ll note, is set by a large pond. The Silver one likewise, but the gardens and buildings all feel a greater connection to their central highlight.
The gardens have many highlights for someone interested in cloud trees, decorated sandbanks, and moss gardens. You can wander around the gardens and then take a path up to an observation deck. As we knew we had plenty of steps ahead of us, we decided against it—but we still encountered Shinto/Buddhist chanting from one of the buildings.
Further on, while taking photos of the moss garden, we noticed that three gardeners were in fact tending to the area. Leaves were being collected alongside other debris, and it was clear the moss garden’s beauty was as cared for and manicured as any other part of the grounds.
Coffee, Cartoons & Calm
Speaking of looking after things well—it was time for another mid-morning break. Many intriguing smells from X and potential sweets from Y had been seen on the way up, but with Mummy vetoing all options other than a coffee shop, we were able to find a table at AG Coffee.
Sat at the back and spotting Hayao Miyazaki figurines in a little garden, we congratulated Mummy on choosing well. We didn’t need the calories for the walk—it’s not that long—but it certainly set us up well for it.
Walking the Philosopher’s Path
We joined the path proper and immediately stopped for obligatory photos. With trees overhanging the stream/channel and the flagstone path, the appeal is obvious.
Walking along the path, you'll take in another side of Kyoto. Away from the busy attractions or the bustling shopping centres, this is a more sedate and suburban side of the city. We drifted along the path, dipping in and out of pottery shops and art galleries, until I asked the family to turn off and follow me for 300 metres. With this slight diversion, you can easily visit Honen-in Shrine.
Honen-in: A Hidden Gem
We had been captured by its beauty in this vlog, which does a fantastic job of capturing the atmosphere we encountered. Unlike some videos, this won’t spoil your time there—even if you watch it beforehand. A great sense of peace comes over you, and for once, I’ll let some photos do the talking.
We had been captured by its beauty in this vlog, which does a fantastic job of capturing the atmosphere we encountered. Unlike some videos, this won’t spoil your time there—even if you watch it beforehand. A great sense of peace comes over you, and for once, I’ll let some photos do the talking.
Drums, Boats & Blessings
Just outside the shrine the kids played in a small playground while Mummy and I enjoyed the serene experience we had had. After this brief play stop we got back on the path and then encountered a man playing a Tibetan drum-like instrument above the tomb of Prince Akiko. Not much further on, we came across a man making boats out of leaves and flowers.
Just outside the shrine the kids played in a small playground while Mummy and I enjoyed the serene experience we had had. After this brief play stop we got back on the path and then encountered a man playing a Tibetan drum-like instrument above the tomb of Prince Akiko. Not much further on, we came across a man making boats out of leaves and flowers.
He insisted (gently) that the kids and my wife drop them into the water for good luck. I forgot to take a photo of his sign, which is in English and Japanese, but it explains how he won’t take any money for his endeavours. Only that he is doing it to spread joy and happiness.
Such a small act, whose ripples I truly hope cause waves I’m caught up in.
Aesthetic Lunch at Café Bibliotic Hello
As we got to the end of the path, we were tired and still had to head home for lunch. While there was still more to see, we had so enjoyed the morning that we chose not to push it.
Using Google Maps, we found the Higashitennocho Bus Stop, and 15 minutes later we were nearly back at the hotel. But instead of diving into our local 7-11 for lunch, I had something grander planned. The Café Bibliotic Hello was just a few doors away from our hotel.
We had wanted to visit it several times, but it was either too busy or we hadn’t needed feeding at the right time. This café is set up for influencers and Instagram. The softly lit interior has one wall lined with books, wooden beams, and a mezzanine.
The food was good but a little pricey, we thought. We didn’t regret it, though—it’s not somewhere we’d visit every day like our beloved Denny’s sat missing us back in Asakusa. But taking the price of lunch out of the experience, it was something we enjoyed—and would I do it again? Yes, without doubt.
Eating at Café Bibliotic Hello, with all its aesthetic appeal but crucially relaxing atmosphere, was our perfect end to the Philosopher’s Path walk.
As we got to the end of the path, we were tired and still had to head home for lunch. While there was still more to see, we had so enjoyed the morning that we chose not to push it.
Using Google Maps, we found the Higashitennocho Bus Stop, and 15 minutes later we were nearly back at the hotel. But instead of diving into our local 7-11 for lunch, I had something grander planned. The Café Bibliotic Hello was just a few doors away from our hotel.
We had wanted to visit it several times, but it was either too busy or we hadn’t needed feeding at the right time. This café is set up for influencers and Instagram. The softly lit interior has one wall lined with books, wooden beams, and a mezzanine.
The food was good but a little pricey, we thought. We didn’t regret it, though—it’s not somewhere we’d visit every day like our beloved Denny’s sat missing us back in Asakusa. But taking the price of lunch out of the experience, it was something we enjoyed—and would I do it again? Yes, without doubt.
Eating at Café Bibliotic Hello, with all its aesthetic appeal but crucially relaxing atmosphere, was our perfect end to the Philosopher’s Path walk.
From Washing Machine to Wisdom
My wife and kids spent the afternoon chilling out in our hotel room. But from one dad to another, I had found something better than reading, watching YouTube, or doom-scrolling on TikTok. I was using the washing machine!
I had always intended to wash some of my clothes in Japan. I expected to do this in a laundrette when in Sumida and had found a Wash & Go close to our hotel there. But for whatever reason, it hadn’t happened.
Alongside a kitchenette in our room was a washer/dryer in the large bathroom. The hotel had even included some detergent—so like a red rag to a bull, I had to have a go. My mind did a loop when looking upon the dials, however.
How, good man, how?! I hear you cry. Not Google Translate this time, nor a translated PDF manual of the machine either. No, I, Alex King, found the first proper use for AI—translating and guiding a man on how to use a foreign washer/dryer!
I’m not joking either. I had used Google to translate the dials. Reading an English PDF manual (I really do know how to have fun), I had started a wash—but after some frustration, I turned to ChatGPT and honestly, it couldn’t have been better.
So pleased was I with my (and GPT’s) success that every time we entered or exited the room, I was always asking if anyone needed any washing doing. They didn’t—but all my polo shirts, socks, and Paul Smiths pants were smelling better than ever when we left Kyoto.
DAD HINT: When stuck, be creative—and AI may be the shortcut you need.
My wife and kids spent the afternoon chilling out in our hotel room. But from one dad to another, I had found something better than reading, watching YouTube, or doom-scrolling on TikTok. I was using the washing machine!
I had always intended to wash some of my clothes in Japan. I expected to do this in a laundrette when in Sumida and had found a Wash & Go close to our hotel there. But for whatever reason, it hadn’t happened.
Alongside a kitchenette in our room was a washer/dryer in the large bathroom. The hotel had even included some detergent—so like a red rag to a bull, I had to have a go. My mind did a loop when looking upon the dials, however.
But I tell you now, good sirs—I not only washed my clothes but dried them too.
How, good man, how?! I hear you cry. Not Google Translate this time, nor a translated PDF manual of the machine either. No, I, Alex King, found the first proper use for AI—translating and guiding a man on how to use a foreign washer/dryer!
I’m not joking either. I had used Google to translate the dials. Reading an English PDF manual (I really do know how to have fun), I had started a wash—but after some frustration, I turned to ChatGPT and honestly, it couldn’t have been better.
So pleased was I with my (and GPT’s) success that every time we entered or exited the room, I was always asking if anyone needed any washing doing. They didn’t—but all my polo shirts, socks, and Paul Smiths pants were smelling better than ever when we left Kyoto.
DAD HINT: When stuck, be creative—and AI may be the shortcut you need.
Evening: From Zen to Shinkansen
The morning and afternoon had been one of the top 3 highlights of the trip. So, how to spend the evening after such a zen-like moment?
Get a bus to Kyoto Station, stand in a queue to buy Shinkansen tickets, of course.
But genuinely, the peace of mind that came with reserving our tickets meant the kids didn’t grumble about the plan. And while Kyoto Station was as busy as it always seemed to be, we didn’t have to queue for long to get our tickets for the next day.
The morning and afternoon had been one of the top 3 highlights of the trip. So, how to spend the evening after such a zen-like moment?
Get a bus to Kyoto Station, stand in a queue to buy Shinkansen tickets, of course.
But genuinely, the peace of mind that came with reserving our tickets meant the kids didn’t grumble about the plan. And while Kyoto Station was as busy as it always seemed to be, we didn’t have to queue for long to get our tickets for the next day.
To confirm again: To see Mt Fuji on the way back to Tokyo—you need seats D or E.
Okonomiyaki for the Win
With our Shinkansen tickets bought and stowed in my wallet, it was dinner time. And all of a sudden, James called out and insisted we eat Japanese! At Kyoto Station the options are many and varied. No, not just “varied”—we’re talking 50+ places to eat.
To help cut down the options, however, I was keen to eat okonomiyaki. There had been a good restaurant back in Sumida that I couldn’t try—and now was our chance.
So, we found X restaurant. Bella and I shared the house special, which included everything. James and my wife ate a more basic but still tasty version of okonomiyaki.
With our Shinkansen tickets bought and stowed in my wallet, it was dinner time. And all of a sudden, James called out and insisted we eat Japanese! At Kyoto Station the options are many and varied. No, not just “varied”—we’re talking 50+ places to eat.
To help cut down the options, however, I was keen to eat okonomiyaki. There had been a good restaurant back in Sumida that I couldn’t try—and now was our chance.
So, we found X restaurant. Bella and I shared the house special, which included everything. James and my wife ate a more basic but still tasty version of okonomiyaki.
We had done it again—ticked off a must-do experience in Kyoto, just in time to head back to Tokyo for our final day in Japan. Day 13
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